2016.05.07

Hasshō

I wonder if the most delicious Hiroshima-style ‘okonomi-yaki’ now would be in Tokyo instead of Hiroshima?
More than 20 years ago, when I frequently went into Hiroshima, I often visited ‘Hasshō’ and went straight in without queuing. You could nibble food while watching TV. This was also when they were serving sliced tongue or ‘tan-zashi’ (it’s likely this was only a limited offer and something you only heard of rather than ate) I eat a lot of the Hiroshima speciality, ’Mino’ or ‘shirojishi’ (beef tripe). It’s a big part of Chinese restaurant cooking. But as a rule short ribs and mixed cuts are served as ‘teppenyaki’ (traditional cooking style using hot-plates) in ‘Hasshō’. A customary beer follows.
Back then the head office was in Hiroshima, but the person in charge of grilling was the master from ‘Hasshō’ in Kyodo. Which is why I started this by wondering of late which is better. The recommended menu needs to be checked as it changes frequently. On this day I ordered scampi and the Hiroshima speciality of watercress and ‘uni’ (sea urchin). Sake-steamed clams are put over ‘sōmen’ noodles after the meal along with a thick and rich tasting broth. But only beer is available to drink.
A favourite is the style of ‘soba-dama’, before being cut into noodles. ‘Su-soba’ on the back menu is also excellent, but these days it’s normal to finish with ‘yaki-soba’. The texture of noodles and egg all wrapped together is beyond words.

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