“Parisian's beloved chef​Known as2019In his own restaurant "MAISONAtsumi Sota, who opened "(Maison)" in Paris, and "(Maison)" who had been paying attention to his cooking before independence.Sumally(Summary) ”Representative Kensuke Yamamoto. The present progressive tense, talked about by two people who share the common denominator of managementwithWith the corona food scene“from now on​, And“How to catch change​What is Atsumi was temporarily returning to JapanTRUNK (HOUSE)(Trunk House) ”was held specially​th​A dialogue between the two was realized on the stage of the group's secret restaurant.

Photo_Ko Tsuchiya Edit & Text _Naoko Monzen Direction_Mio Koumura Special Thanks_ TRUNK (HOUSE)

"Kakurenbo Yokocho" with a black wall on the stone pavement and a Kagurazaka-like atmosphereTRUNK (HOUSE)". Originally built70It is a restaurant of the year, and the exterior has not been modified. The contrast with the modernly renovated interior is unique.

■A unique place to express the world view of Atsumi Sota, "MAISON "

-Mr. Yamamoto said, "MAISONIn addition to "", Chef Atsumi worked before independence.Le Clown Bar(Le Crown Bar)^*I heard that you went to "" several times.^*1916A long-established store founded in the year was rare in Paris at that time due to the change of owner“Tapas bar​Renewed to style. Atsumi becomes a chef every day2The rotation transforms into a full-filled super popular store.

Yamamoto“Le Clown BarI couldn't make a reservation at all, so I just jumped in2About times. I was impressed that the burning of the ingredients was wonderful. After that, when I heard that he was independent, he immediately said, "MAISONI also asked. I felt that it was a very complete, Parisian restaurant. At Japanese restaurants, I feel that there are more people who are more interested in cooking or in the world view. "MAISONHad a consistent view of the world and a story. I felt that it was a unique restaurant in Paris because the balance was very comfortable, perhaps because it was an evolution of a French restaurant because of its Japanese-like delicacy. This is the place I want to go again. "

Paris​"A hideaway atmosphere in the ward"MAISON". The original house has been reborn by Tsuyoshi Tane, a Paris-based architect, into a space where strength and warmth coexist. "Written next to the doorMAISONThe logo is by David Lynch, a cult-popular film director.

-Mr. Atsumi, who has experienced various business formats from Grand Maison to Bistro,MAISONWhat kind of concept is set in "?"

AtsumiThere is no concept. On the contrary, if you decide, you shouldn't. I think it is important to obediently cook the food you want to cook at that time. When I was hired, I had to match the style of the store. That makes you want to do the opposite of the store style. The last "Le Clown BarIs literally a bar. In reaction to that, "MAISONThen I tried to do gastronomy. However, I would like to embody the cozy gastronomy restaurant I envision, not the so-called three-star restaurant.

Yamamoto"MAISON" is sophisticated, though it has a relaxed atmosphere. I think Mr. Tane has a lot of power in terms of space, but it was a very luxurious spacing.

“MAISONLounge (​(Floor), dining with open kitchen (floor)2Floor). Collected from all over France2More than 10,000 terracotta tiles are impressive. / Photo_ 11h45

“MAISONAtsumi's specialty from before, "Pithiviers de canard(Duck meat and foie gras pie wrap) ". A dish that tells us that the basis of his cuisine is traditional French cuisine. / Photo_ Joann Pai


■Paris and Tokyo food scene in Corona

Yamamoto 　“MAISONAbout half a year after the opening of "Paris" has been locked down. What was the situation at the local restaurant after that?

AtsumiBefore the lockdown, it was open normally. However, it was a really sudden event, and it was announced on Saturday night, and it was locked down from Sunday. I was in trouble because we purchased a large amount of ingredients. Volunteers from restaurants to medical professionals gradually started, but at first the corona was too unknown and the whole city was tingling. Various rumors flew around and he said he didn't know what was true. Currently, many restaurants are taking out, but we are completely closed.

YamamotoHas the atmosphere changed since tourists stopped coming to Paris?

AtsumiIt has changed a lot. "MAISONEven so, there were many people who thought that it was a hoodie or Instagrammer because there was a lot of exposure to the media at the beginning of the opening, but that has disappeared. Instead, a local grandfather came to me (laughs). When the lockdown was temporarily released, more Parisians enjoyed a calm meal.

YamamotoIt seemed that many restaurants in Tokyo were devised, such as opening in the evening and opening all the time, while responding to requests to shorten the time.

AtsumiWhen I asked my fellow chefs in Tokyo, it seemed to be difficult to do.20Even though it is open until time, it is not recommended to go to a restaurant. If you don't open the store, it will be difficult for you to manage, but can you open it under a state of emergency? When there is a conflict. "I want you to clarify (whether or not you can do business)."

YamamotoIt's ambiguous, it's a very Japanese measure, isn't it? (2(Under the second state of emergency) The cooperation fee for restaurants that cooperated with the shortened business hours is uniform.​th610,000 yen is said to be unequal from large stores. In addition, the capital5,000Over 10,000 employees50It was strict that there was no cooperation fee for more than one person (​Will be additionally paid at a later date). How about compensation for restaurants of the French government?

Atsumilast year​From month to restaurant up to month​10,000 euros12After the month of the previous year's sales20%(Or​The higher amount will be paid compared to 10,000 euros). In addition to this, the salary of employees is zero, so our store alone can receive compensation of several million yen a month. However, fixed costs such as rent continue to be incurred, so it is a very difficult situation for a business owner.

■Beforecorona,AfterHow Corona works

― Mr. Yamamoto is also a manager, but how did Corona change your working style?

YamamotoWe are completely remote. Many people have said that commuting time has disappeared and efficiency has improved, and it will continue to be a policy of remote work. I moved from Tokyo to Karuizawa last summer. Because of this kind of time, it's comfortable to live in nature. I like traveling in the first place, so I have the stress of not being able to go abroad.

here5It has become overwhelmingly easier to work both on the move and at the destination in about a year. Rather than having Corona dramatically change the way we work, we feel that the soil is growing behind the scenes where we can work wherever we are, and that Corona has made it clearly visible.

AtsumiCertainly, that may be the case.

YamamotoOf course, there are differences depending on the industry, but even in the food and beverage industry, this secret restaurant and Atsumi-san will be selling the tea leaf brand at the end of the year.GEN GEN AN(Gengen An) ”and other cross-country projects such as food trucks may have become much easier to proceed with the evolution of online tools over the last few years. The hurdles for remote meetings and food procurement have been lowered, haven't they?

AtsumiI agree. Now at Ginza Sony ParkGEN GEN ANHas opened a tea stand for a limited time, and "MAISONBrand born from ""TOMETTEWe offer sweets developed in (Tomet). Derived from that, at the end of last year2We held a food truck for only one day. Since it is outdoors, I thought that the risk of infection could be reduced, and above all, it was fun. Using truffles, eels, deer tongue, etc., some of them are ¥4,000As for the menu. I was told that it wasn't the price of a food truck (laughs), but both days2It sold out in about an hour. Following this success, I hope to hold a shaved ice version from spring to summer.

― Speaking of events like food trucks for a limited time, we mainly do business trip cooking without having a store“Nomad Chef​Atsumi-san feels that the working styles of chefs are diversifying with the appearance of chefs who focus on producing other restaurants and food brands by narrowing down the business days of the stores. What do you think?

AtsumiRegardless of whether or not you live that way, I think it's best to work as you like and as you want. If I can cook, that's fine. But just thinking so now​Years later2I might be doing something completely different years later.

■Unique to Tokyo“Restaurant environment​

YamamotoIn the first place in Tokyo“Restaurant environment​I think it's pretty special. First of all, there is no other big city in the world where small and top-class shops are so dense, and the density of delicious restaurants is very high. Even in that stylish dining bar that college students are likely to go to, they serve dishes at the level that they can get one star in the United States. Under such circumstances, the highest peak chef who catches stars is aiming at night2Rotating counter8It is not uncommon for a restaurant to have seats. It's a very blessed restaurant environment for the eater, isn't it? In many cases, the quality of food prepared for a small number of people is higher than that for a large number of people.

As a result, comparing the world standard with Japan, especially Tokyo, the food service industry is like a different sport. The easy-to-understand success story as a chef in the world was like Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse, who have created big boxes of restaurants all over the world and are also successful owners, but in Tokyo The chef doesn't even trace it. That's why we enjoy very high level food every day. Although the prices have tended to rise considerably over the past few years, I think that the cost performance of top-class stores is still high compared to world standards.

I have the impression that many Japanese chefs who are active in Paris are fooling around in the meantime. Don't spread your hands too much, but don't just stay at the counter.

AtsumiI agree. "MAISON"Also30It's about a seat, but it's for ingredients and human resource development. In order to purchase good ingredients and use them up, we want a certain scale. Communicate with farmers and producers and buy all the good ingredients. By doing so, a relationship of trust will be built.

It also makes sense because I want to cultivate excellent chefs more and more.MAISONOf courseTOMETTEI also have a desire to nurture younger generations.

「MAISON」渥美創太と「Sumally」山本憲資が語る、コロナ禍のフードシーン ＜後編＞