ENGINEERED GARMENTS(Engineered Garments)LOWERCASECollaborated and developed a shirt collection. This time, Yuki Kajiwara wore a shirt for an adult man who he wanted to wear.3Mold release. The design is a long-sleeve and short-sleeved pullover shirt, and a big silhouette shirt.In the latter half of the dialogue, we will ask about the production background.

Photo_ Ko Tsuchida Interview&Text_ Aika Kawada

ENGINEERED GARMENTS ×LOWERCASE 2人が語るコラボレーションとNY／前半

-What are the core items of your collection?

Kajiwara Yukke (Kajiwara):Short-sleeved pullover shirt. I personally like the design of pullovers, but I don't think that pullovers are almighty when it comes to the function of clothes and the ease of styling. So I named it "fake pullover" and invented a design that looks like a pullover, but actually has the same specifications as a normal open shirt. Long sleeves of the same type will be available only at EDIFICE.

-How about a big silhouette shirt?

Kajiwara:The styling of the big silhouette that Akio Hasegawa, a stylist I often see recently, has been working on. I like it very much, but it looks good on young people, but when we are old, it becomes weird people in fancy clothes. That's why I proposed that we would like to make a big silhouette shirt into a shape that adults can wear with a "strange" design.

-What did you think of this request?

Suzuki Daiki (hereinafter Suzuki):I thought it was a very good idea. I was convinced that the direction of each item was quite clear, and it seems like Mr. Kajiwara. It's a standard thing, but to incorporate a slightly different idea.

Kajiwara:I think it was a rather playful idea than the items I worked on so far. This is a funny story, but I heard that when ENGINEERED GARMENTS collaborated with a certain apparel maker, Oki suggested a shirt with a horse, a penguin and a crocodile (laughs).

Suzuki:I proposed it and it was dismissed lightly. People riding horses chase the crocodile (laughs).

Kajiwara:If such a sense of humor is ant, I felt that I could make items with playful details together, so I consulted horribly (laugh).

-Are there any difficulties in incorporating your ideas into the design?

Suzuki:It wasn't difficult to make, but it was the first time to make a full-open shirt with pullover details. I haven't seen it sold as a thing. I personally like the pullover, so I enjoyed it. I think many people in our generation like it.

Kajiwara:I wanted to prevent pullovers from sometimes becoming too cute. Even if you wear a jacket, there is absolutely no design around your stomach. I think that the styling itself is decided by something. But I really wanted to keep the details of the sword tip. It means that both sides have taken good looks.

-Where is the big silhouette shirt designed for adults?

Suzuki:It's a big silhouette that has been well-established since the trend, but he says that it's difficult for adults to wear the feeling that they are simply wearing large size, as is done by young people. What came to my mind was the RALPH LAUREN big shirt that started in 1990. It is a big silhouette item that was quite popular for a while. I wonder if that is just right for adults. I had some at that time, but I didn't have it anymore. I immediately searched from Ebay to vintage shops. Then, there was a person who disclosed information on the net from measurement to silhouette. The silhouette was arranged with a little darts while referring to the size by referring to the measurements.

Kajiwara:When I had a discussion about this project, I was told that I was doing it like an old polo. Wow, where did you get the sauce from? I thought.

Suzuki:It was fun to adjust the shioume by modeling it. In the process of making it, there was a good response that adult men could also dress it up.

-Which area did you actually use the details of the RALPH LAUREN big shirt?

Suzuki:The big silhouette clothes that young people wear are characterized by clearly wearing clothes that look large against the body. From a sensory perspective, I think the 80's designer brand silhouette is similar. Clothes of that era were made so that the shoulders fell off, but the length of the sleeve matches the length of the hand, so the sleeve itself is very short. An extreme story, when it is unfolded and laid flat, it looks like a doll's clothes. I thought it was a bit difficult for an adult to wear that much.

Kajiwara:Like David Burn in the "Stop Making Sense"It's a feeling.

Suzuki:There is a claim on the shoulder, so there is a force that makes me think that it is a designer's thing at a glance, but it is only that. But for this shirt,Sleeve widthAlthough there is, the shoulder line is made to fit the shoulder properly. We valued a relaxed atmosphere rather than a quick look. For older people, looser clothing is more comfortable. As is true for suits, there are many good things that are classic, but nowadays, the natural lines are more comfortable to wear and are preferred. I don't think it's a mood to wear small items.

—90In the decadeRALPH LAURENHow did you wear your big shirt?

Suzuki:I wear the shirt as it is, and the bottom is denim. At that time, items such as big jeans and big chinos were just the big size. However, it gradually became popular with people in the hip-hop area. To be honest, that's why I didn't wear much. Even now, when I look at it again, I really like it. Back thenRALPH LAURENI liked the advertisement of "is cool".

Kajiwara:In those days, bottoms also had a lot of volume. NowRALPH LAURENAlso understand90We are recreating items that were very popular in the decade.

—This collection isOnline select shopURBAN RESEARCH BUYERS SELECT and EDIFICEI heard that it will be deployed.

Kajiwara:It is a shop that stores the "I want to wear" series so far.This big shirt is exclusive. There are variations in long sleeves for fake pullover shirts.EDIFICEBut I will expand it.

Suzuki:The name is ENGINEERED GARMENTSandLOWERCASEIt comes with a list of names.

Kajiwara:Yes, it has a special name. In the future, we would like to standardize a part of this collection to increase the color development. Yellow comes out this time, but I'm looking forward to developing it in pink.

初タッグ「ENGINEERED GARMENTS×LOWERCASE」 新定番シャツを制作

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