Photo_MomoAngela Text_Mio Koumura

Jeanne Signoles, the designer of the French canvas bag brand "L / UNIFROM", came to Japan in March to coincide with the launch of a collaboration bag with Hiroshi Fujiwara. It's been about 3 years since the Tokyo flagship store in Marunouchi opened. We also talked to Jeanne Signor and Hiroshi Fujiwara for the first time in three years for a physical meeting.

The long-awaited collaboration bag
3 years until launch

Their first co-production dates back to 2014, when Fujiwara's legendary shop "the pool Aoyama" existed. Jeanne Signor has just started "L / UNIFORM". It is said that he got acquainted with Fujiwara who was visiting Paris through a friend and got an opportunity to convey the brand. Fujiwara recalls that time, "(Jeanne) has the impression that she is a beautiful French lady. I thought" luxury canvas "was interesting." It was about three years ago that the two who had deepened their friendship started their second collaboration. "The picture was made two and a half years ago, and I think the first sample was up at that time. I just contacted Jeanne a couple of weeks ago," What happened to the bag? " is".

The global coronavirus epidemic is one of the factors, but during the last three years, Jeanne's strong intention to "launch together" as well as the development of bags was great. "First of all, L / UNIFORM is not a brand that is active in collaboration. I am not a product that is finished in collaboration, but a process in which people with different cultures, lifestyles, and backgrounds create one work with creation as a common item. I'm interested in, "says Jeanne.

"No129"
Commitment to side handles

Fujiwara proposed a bag that can be used for days without being put in anything. Based on the design picture, Jeanne is based on the No54 big bag originally made as a travel bag, and the weight is reduced by making one piece of canvas, which is usually made of two pieces.

"In order to make a bag that can be used every day even with heavy luggage, it is necessary to make the bag lighter, so I decided to remove the insole at the bottom and make it as a single piece, but it makes sense if it gets out of shape. By devising patterns and stitches, we have realized No129, which can stand on its own and can withstand heavy and tough use. "

In addition to the long strap that is easy to hold as a shoulder bag, it is also a big feature that a short strap is laid on the side at the offer of Fujiwara. If you hold it with the strap that Fujiwara sticks to the exquisite shortness and holds a few fingertips, it is an interesting mechanism that completely changes the style of the bag. "At first glance, I wonder,'What should I do with this?', But when you hold it, your hand fits comfortably, and the appearance of holding the bag is determined by elegance. In terms of length, the design that combines such surprises and usability is wonderful, "Jeanne said.

The iconic natural color canvas woven from cotton and linen is printed with the Fragment design logo, highlighting the details of the same color cotton tape. Basic poppy red, deep blue,Available in three basic black colors, each color is numbered 45 points.

"From the advice of the Japanese staff on Jeanne's team, it seems that the ominous number was removed and there are up to 50 No. It may have been interesting to make it a prime number," Fujiwara said, "It's a little big for everyone. Maybe, but it's the right size daily bag for me. I use it every day. "

"L / UNIFORM" manufacturing
Collaboration that resonates with details

From fabrics to sewing, "L / UNIFORM" is made by the collaboration of French Carcassonne and Portuguese atelier craftsmen. It takes at least one year to complete a new bag. Some are said to take more than two years.

The first "bag sizing" is an important point, and the size feeling is carefully adjusted in millimeters at the Carcassonne atelier. Once decided, make a prototype out of paper and then make a sample on a khaki canvas.

"Khaki canvas is the most difficult to sew, so if that works, you can also make it with (original color) beige canvas. It doesn't make sense to just finish one piece, so 10 ateliers are the same. I will test if it can be made. "

The blueprints for the passed bags will be brought to the factory in Portugal by the responsible person for a second test to determine if they can be reproduced as expected or if they can be numbered. "First, look at the stitching of the bag that is unified at 2 mm. If you find something that is 3 mm, find out the cause of that. It is difficult to sew the place where the fabric overlaps with the current machine. Or is it just artificial? In some cases, the machine may be redeveloped from scratch. " At the same time as pursuing millimeters, after rigorously checking the quality of strength and load capacity, it will finally come to light.

Such attention to detail is synchronized with the collaboration partner she chooses. Jeanne talked about an episode with Masamichi Katayama, who built the flagship store in Paris. "I decided to deliver the blueprints to a construction company in Paris and start construction the next day, but I was contacted to get together the next morning. When asked why, the counter width has a margin of 1 cm. That is a benefit for both the store staff and the customer, so I hurriedly told the construction company, "I want you to do it." What are you talking about in 1cm ?! ”, but I asked for it without breaking and the shop was able to finish it.”

“No129”Like her small handle, she naturally perceives such underlying commonalities, and by making things together, she is expanding the world view of "L / UNIFORM". "There must be something to feel with each other. I feel respect for Hiroshi's craftsmen, and it's very comfortable to work with people who have the same attitude across countries, languages, and cultures. I feel that the great thing about collaboration is that an exchange is born by discovering things that didn't exist and having them show them. "

■L / UNIFORM × FRAGMNT