"Moncler"Continued tag with various brands includingfragment designHiroshi Fujiwara from (Fragment Design)Collaboration with "TOD'S""Mame Kurogouchi" designer Maiko Kurokawauchi, who has been expanding the range of her activities worldwide. Since we met at "the pool aoyama" directed by Fujiwara, the two people have a close relationship not only through collaboration but also in private. On that day, Fujiwara first visited Mame Kurogouchi Hanegi, a directly-managed store that opened in Haneki, Setagaya-ku, which also has an atelier. We listened to the talks of two people who had a "ordinary mood" from the things they traveled to, collaboration, manufacturing, and conflicts.
Photo_ Masami Naruo｜Interview&Text_ Mio Koumura
I travel a lotTwo people's luggage and work
Kurokochi:Hiroshi does a lot of work in parallel. I haven't worked for beans for the first time in a long time, but while it was a lot of fun,long periodOwn brand at the same timeProgressBecause I was doing so, I think that it was difficult to use time and travel distance. When you look at Mr. Hiroshi's Instagram, you are constantly moving a distance that is surprising. How often do you have a Moncler meeting?
Fujiwara – /Times. When I don't do spring and summer, I keep doing it for half a year.
Kurokochi:I am also a moonI used to go therewas.. For many yearsRashaHiroshi, Amazingis not it
Fujiwara – But,2,3About the age Mame-chan has the image of being suddenly in a country town in Japan that I don't know, or constantly moving. Isn't it more difficult to move domestically?
Kurokochi:surely. I'm the type who can't get input even if I sit at a desk and work for a long time, so moving is one of my life works. While moving, "How long will you continue this life?I feel likeThere isAfter all, the scenery of the destination is wonderful, there are many encounters and discoveries, and I can not stop foreverRight.. SoWhatWe always want to make our travels comfortable and we select our travel wardrobes quite carefully. Hiroshi is the same, right? The impression that I always have a lot of luggage when I meet overseas.
Fujiwara – Yeah, basically only one suitcase. Does the bag not fill up no matter what size? Even if you think that it will not fit in, even if it is a large size, you will have more items to put in it, so if it is small, I think that it should be small. On the other hand, there are times when the amount of luggage that travels in Japan is large.
Kurokochi:I have today too"that"Is it a tote bag? The size was always the same and I was curious. What's in it?
Fujiwara – A computer and a charger, and the project materials at that time. I also have a small keyboard when I work on music. In my case, the back is like an office. I don't have an atelier, so I can work anywhere. I work remotely every day.
Kurokochi:Well, if you were attacked and robbed your bag,
Fujiwara – It's the end.
Kurokochi:(Lol). Has your luggage been small since ancient times?
Fujiwara – Yeah. I think it was relatively light, but especiallyPCThe evolution of may be big. In the old days, I used to carry a lot of Walkmans and cassette tapes when I traveled.If it was a bookYou have only time, right? That's why I thought it was convenient at the time. Mame-chan has no image of having a PC.
Kurokochi:I'm also relatively compact and now basicallyiPadAnd notes only. I write all the designs by hand, but when I make a final copy or share it with the staff,iPadTo use. That isTOD'SIn collaboration with, the language problem was big. The team can speak English, but the craftsmen on site are Italian. I was able to communicate with some gestures, but I was drawing a small request like "I want this clothes to be this cloth" in a picture.
Fujiwara – Isn't it difficult to convey the texture of the fabric just by painting? No matter how good you are, if you draw a picture, you can imagine the texture and thickness of the fabric, the feeling of touch, and even the inside of your head, but it may be hard for the listener to share the image.
Kurokochi:That was transmitted. This is the note, though.
Fujiwara – I draw it properly. Mame-chan looks like a designer (laughs).
Kurokochi:Hiroshi, right? I'm a designer (laughs). For example, wear todayAll the clothes are from Mame Kurogouchi for Tod ’s,Best is our past patternMake it as a referenceI do, but I also draw a detailed request for "I want you to replace this with leather" and the threads and weaves. Also, this time I have assembled a collection with the theme of "travel wardrobe", but for example I am on the way to the company I thought that it was one of the most trips. As you take a walk around this area, you can encounter various scenery, so you can also see the green nets hung on trees and the fallen leavesOr take a notePaste it.
Fujiwara – You can make a book.
Kurokochi:But this process was something that I've always been comfortable with, and it's been an interesting discovery for me this time that I can share it with many people. For example, try spreading the dough sample on a notebook. My mind is so crowded that I don't think I can recognize it unless I visualize it like this. That's why I try to write my thoughts in notebooks.
Fujiwara – If you don't write it down, you'll forget it. Me tooiPhoneI wrote a lot of interesting things that I do not want to forget.
What is a good collaboration? The process and background
Kurokochi:What kind of production process is Moncler doing?
Fujiwara – Since the number of molds that the other party wants to make is fixed, I feel like I will come up with ideas and concepts and make something like the first image board while talking with the team. As a sample, I often bring used clothes that are similar to my image to explain. After that, there are things like the latest techniques that companies have, so I decide with discussion with local designers.
Kurokochi:I tooClothes5I got a look and an offer, but in my“Minimum travel set"I'm designing afterDiscussion while goingAs a result, the number of molds increased in the end. How many teams does Hiroshi work on?
Fujiwara – Besides me, the main designer2People and assistantsMan. We will meet with this team on an hourly basis, with marketing, dough, and button responsibilities.
Kurokochi:IAt the beginning of the projectI didn't understand what I was doingHas been sentTime schedule during your stayToYou seehand,Of the meetingThe schedule is packedI remember being surprised at.
Fujiwara – Yes Yes. Sometimes teams get out and go out for lunch, but in the morning8Pick up at the hotel in the half hourComingI feel like I'm taken away (laughs). It's been a meeting since then.
Kurokochi:Another surprise. When I first visited, a car came to pick me up at the airport, but if I get on it4Moving time (laughs). In the Marche region, where Tods' headquarters is locatedCassette DetteWhen you arrive in the city, how many Tokyo Domes are there? Headquarters in a vast siteofficeNot only that, but there are factories where craftsmen work,I was impressed that both designers and craftsmen were working on the same site.
Fujiwara – That's amazing. I've never been to a factory, but my usual Moncler office is in Milan2There is a place, the smaller one is here (the bean press room)5Floor. The other place is wider and has a company meal.
Kurokochi:I think that the factory is vast because there are many productions. When you actually start working, collaboration is completely different depending on how much you want to enter and work. ISince it is a type that is absorbed in manufacturing, I try to go deep into it."I'll leave it to you"To the staff aroundHow easy is it to sayI think,
Fujiwara – Maybe I'm better at that one.
Kurokochi:I had the same consultation with Hiroshi before. It seems that you were encouraged by the story of bread making.
Fujiwara – Oh, after reading "The cakeless delinquent boys". For example, if you want to eat bread, delinquent boys choose to eat it immediately after impulsively shoplifting, but if your imagination and cognitive skills become high, you just need to find a delicious bakery and study how to make it. It's like eating something in search of something more delicious. In terms of animals, bears instinctively eat honey even if they become sticky with their hands, but wise monkeys eat with sticks. Mame-chan seems to continue to seek delicious bread. In other words, it's intellectual.
Kurokochi:Thank you smile). However, I also want to be wild like a bear that eats honey by hand even if it becomes sticky. Hiroshi sometimes makes clothes like bears, isn't he? I definitely need such an impulse.
Fujiwara – Is it clothes like a bear (laughs)? But Mame-chan is a person who wants to do whatever he wants, right? This was the first time I noticed this when I was talking to a friend before, but even in a top restaurant in France, I buy bread at a bakery.
Kurokochi:Do you not bake by yourself?
Fujiwara – so. So no matter how delicious a restaurant in France is, fresh bread doesn't come out. But I recommend it with confidence because it's bread that the chef of that restaurant recognizes. That's probably the same idea as "mochi is in mochiya" in Japan. To begin with, shoes that are better than you can make yourselfNIKEIt was the beginning of my collaboration that I will make it there, and since I've been making things that way, I want to leave what I am good at to those who are good at it.
Kurokochi:So that's it. But justI used to use leather as a material, and while I was making things in Japan, I used to experience various walls, so I have that background.TOD'SIt was different in me that I was able to work with Mr."box"I felt like it opened.
Fujiwara – That's a good thing. I don't wear leather shoes often and I rarely make them, so ifTOD'SPerhaps now, we may not be able to find what we can get or what essence we can give us. But, like Mame-chan, if it had a leather background and similarities, it would have been the best partner to assemble.
Kurokochi:I,21.5And my legs are really small. If it's overseas size34The size that can hardly be found. Even if I find it once in a while, I feel it is not comfortable to wear or hit,TOD'SShoesI originally had it, andIt's very easy to wear. If it's with this brand, spread various things, Make your own female figureIt looks like it's going to happen.
Fujiwara – That's because it's the company that made shoes. Perhaps a fashion brand may not have made so many small shoes.
Kurokochi:That's right. So farAt the depth ofIt was my first time working with a brand,very muchLet me do it freelyI think I got.. Thank you there,Whenthought.
Fujiwara: I also have a high degree of freedom.But I suppose I'll decide the frame to work with the brand first. Ask them to decide whether it's a logo, a graphic, or an item. Then, is there any surprise that you can enjoy yourself? I refuse that it may not be fun even if I do it.
Kurokochi:What timing does Hiroshi show the most excitement in the manufacturing process?
Fujiwara – Is the excitement before the sample is completed?
Kurokochi:Before!Very stoic (laughs)
Fujiwara: No, when it was possible (laughs). But even when you're designing, would you be happy if you could do something good?
Kurokochi:Yeah, I understand. Because it's the first time, my imagination will be full.
Hiroshi Fujiwara's Juvenile Mind and Change of Beans in the 10th Year
blackKawauchi:Through my collaboration, I realized a lot in myself. In myself"MameKurogouchi, "Crystal of the story I spun"It's like an image of "my novel" packed withTOD'SCollaboration withIs that『Preparatory clothes for making my novel』The image. Starting the brand this year10It's my first year,20TeensIt was completely different from when I started the brand. I've been making what I want to wear,ActuallyThe gap between what you want to make and what you want to wearI have been worried until now... ButThis collaboration reflects my taste of calm colors, the collection is very linked to me, and it feels like I was just starting the brand. Do it.HiroshiAround thatIs very light and envious. I think I need that lightness.
Fujiwara – I wonder what. I don't know if it will be the answer"Leather jacket"I lost the timing to take off. Punk rockers are sharp in their youth, but when they grow up, they take off their leather jackets, bring home, and calm down. That way everyone"Normal decent adult"However, I lost the timing, and in the end I wasn't able to take it off. So I have no choice but to live without it, and I want to live as it is. Well, I don't know if it's bad or not, but I can't be normal.
Kurokochi:e! I reallyNiceI don't know Hiroshi-san's history so far,EveryoneI think I understood why Hiroshi was attracted to you (laughs). Because it doesn't take off, it may be kept.
Fujiwara – Of course there may be many of them. So I think I'm choosing the best way to live, but I've given up on becoming a proper adult.
Kurokochi:I want to know the secret that Mr. Hiroshi has been able to continue.
Fujiwara – No, it happened when I realized it (laughs). Generally, everyone stops in a comfortable place. Many people in our generation were influenced by punk, and some of us may have been punk-old for years. But I liked punk, but also the next music. Every time I meet ska and hip hop, I feel cozy every time. But soon I got tired of it and jumped at the interesting things in front of me. Maybe I'm always expecting something to happen next.
Kurokochi:I think it's nice. I wanted to re-examine myself so that I could grasp things more intuitively. Is honey or acorn what you really want to eat? I want to be able to grasp with a delicate sense.
Fujiwara – But bears ate honey without thinking about it, and they didn't even notice that they had acorns (laughs)?
Kurokochi:That's true (laughs).Me too3When I was old, I liked drawing princesses, and when I realized that I should draw a cute dress because I wanted to make it more cute, I continued doing the same thing.I have it.On the other handI have a company and I myselfa littleI feel like I'm dexterous.
Fujiwara – Isn't that what Mame-chan originally had?
Kurokochi:However, when I draw a picture in a notebook, I try to draw it well, or I need to draw something that can be conveyed. When I am moved by more urges to convey something, I think that I can't get together so well. So if you find yourself like Hiroshi, you need an approach like "Let's eat honey right away"……。
Fujiwara – Am I being a fool (laughs)?
Kurokochi:I haven't (laughs)! Really start the brand10As I was older, I thought it was absolutely necessary for me to do something in the future.
Fujiwara – 10Year Mame-chan is still a rookie.
Kurokochi:Is that so (laughs)? However, it seems that various values have changed completely in this year.10I think I was driven by things like desires and hopes a year ago, but for example, in the case of a company, I want to continue rather than increase it, so now I am valued with a completely different vector As you are trying. I don't have a bait, but for me, "How can I stay a 3-year-old"?"How long can you keep the freshness of the fun" is an issue.
Fujiwara – But Mame looks fun. Especially when talking about the collection. It sounds like fun (laughs). It's the joy that comes when it takes shape, through the process of making it from the moment it is first imagined. But not always,I was a little jealous while listening to the story (laughs).
Kurokochi:Is that my bearishness? (Lol)
Kurokochi:But more importantly, the next thing to do is whether or not you can be yourself with a high concentration in your life.10I want to do my best for the year. FinallyOhlistenI want it, but how was my shop?
Fujiwara – No, isn't it the best? You can see the tracks and it's a tenement. I really wanted to go to Cherry. ((Coffee shop in the neighborhood, closed on coverage day)
Kurokochi:I'm glad to hear that. Cherry is a very ordinary coffee shop, but it's really cozy.Let's go next.